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Wig Making and Styling

A Complete Guide for Theatre & Film

By Martha Ruskai, Allison Lowery

  1. ISBN: 9780240813202
  2. Publication Date: March 2010
  3. Format: Paperback
  4. Pages: 222
  5. Price:
    • $52.95 (USD)
    • £32.99 (GBP)
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  8. Sample Chapters

Description

Top off that costume with the perfect accoutrement with this first real guide to creating and styling costume wigs. No longer will you need to comb through old references on hairstyles of different time periods, Wig Making and Styling contains everything you need to be a cut above, offering snippets on styling tools, hair types, wig making and measuring, coloring, cutting, and even creating beards and toupees. Other great features include:

-Versatile techniques to create all different historical hairstyles

-Tips on altering existing wigs and creating wigs from scratch

-Multiple approaches and solutions to solving wig-making problems and needs

-Information about the industry, including history and best practices

Full of inspirational and directive photographs, this book will groom anyone from novice to professional stylist into a skilled wig designer.

Author Bio

Martha Ruskai has 30 years of wig making and design experience running the gamut from The Santa Fe Opera & Off Broadway to Miller Light Beer TV commercials & properties wigs for Sleeping With the Enemy. 25 years of teaching at major theatrical institutions including creating the Wig and Makeup Training Program at the University of North Carolina School of the Arts.
Allison Lowery is the Wig and Makeup Specialist for Texas Performing Arts at the University of Texas at Austin. She was also the Wig Master for the Alabama Shakespeare Festival, and has created wigs and makeup for Zilker Musical Theatre, the Lyric Opera of Chicago, the Utah Shakespeare Festival, and many others. She has also been a recipient of the B. Iden Payne Award for Outstanding Costume Design.

Reviews

"The first of its kind and a must-have for students and professionals alike. Filled with photographs and detailed, step-by-step instructions for every sort of wig and hairpiece , Wig Making and Styling now occupies a prominent place in my professional library. I will refer to it often as I work."

-William Ivey Long, five-time Tony Award winning costume designer

Contents

Table of Contents

CHAPTER 1-WIG MAKING TERMS, TOOLS, AND TECHNIQUES

Extensive glossary of terms used in wig making and styling

Essential tools for a wig making kit and a wig styling kit

Different types of hairpins and their uses

Different types of brushes and their uses

Things needed for a good work space

Blocking a wig, handling a wig, basic sewing stitches

CHAPTER 2-WIG MAKING BASICS: LEARNING TO VENTILATE

Different types of needles and holders; loading the needle into the holder

Different types of wig making laces, nets, ribbon, stays, and their uses

Different types of hair and their uses

Basic knotting techniques

-Single knotting

-Double knotting

Body positions to ventilate in

Different patterns, densities and ventilating directions

Untying knots

Blending hair colors

Sewing with invisible thread

CHAPTER 3-TAKING ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS

What measurements need to be taken and why

How to take proper head measurements using a tape measure

How to transfer head measurements to a block

How to take a plastic tracing of a performer's head using plastic wrap and clear tape

How to pad out a block to exactly fit these plastic tracings

CHAPTER 4-FACIAL HAIR

How to take a facial hair tracing

Growth direction of different areas of facial hair

How to lay out the lace for different types of facial hair

Crepeing hair to add texture

Cutting and styling the finished piece of facial hair

Application and removal, of facial hair

CHAPTER 5-FRONTING AND OTHER ADAPTATIONS OF COMMERCIAL WIGS

Types of wig fronts

Human hairlines

How to do a quick front

How to do a regular/standard wig front

How to do a deep front

Lace and hair growth direction

Silk blenders

Nape laces

Piecing together wigs

CHAPTER 6-BUILDING A FULL WIG FROM SCRATCH

Types of full wig foundations

How to make circumference band foundation

How to make a nape piece foundation

How to make a one piece back foundation

Seams and edges

Adding the hair

Parts, crown swirls, and cowlicks

Balding wigs

CHAPTER 7-TOUPEES, PARTIAL WIGS, AND OTHER HAIRPIECES

Discuss the different types of hairpieces and toupees

Discuss issues in matching hair color to hair pieces

Demonstrate how to make weft

Discuss different types of falls and how to use each

Custom falls

Demonstrate making a switch

CHAPTER 8-WIG APPLICATION AND REMOVAL

Discuss different ways of preparing the performer's hair to go under the wig

Demonstrate a pin curl prep

Demonstrate a wrapped prep

Demonstrate a braided prep

Demonstrate a prep for a person with short, little, or no hair

Demonstrate how to put on a lace front wig

Demonstrate how to take off a lace fronted wig or facial hair piece

CHAPTER 9-WIG STYLING TECHNIQUES

Different elements of a hairstyle-straight hair, wavy hair, curly hair, braided/coiled/dreadlocked hair

Dealing with different hair types (human hair vs. synthetic hair

Methods of making hair straight

Methods of making hair wavy

Methods of making hair curly

Different types of braids

How to create dreadlocks on a wig

CHAPTER 10--CREATING A HAIRSTYLE

How to take the techniques from chapter 10 and put them together to create a hairstyle

How to break the hairstyle down into sections

Discuss how to read research pictures to create a hairstyle

How to plan out a set before beginning the wig styling

Basic setting rules and basic wig styling rules

Teasing a wig vs. stuffing a wig to create volume in a hairstyle

Using a wire frame to create shape in a hairstyle

Men's hairstyling

Sample hairstyles

CHAPTER 11--CUTTING, PERMING, AND COLORING A FINISHED WIG

Different coloring methods

-hair color basics

-universal hair color systems

-temporary hair color products

-fabric dyes

-safety precautions

-dyeing human hair

-dyeing synthetic hair

Before you perm wigs

Cutting wigs vs. cutting hair on a live human being

CHAPTER 12-HAIR THAT ISN'T HAIR: WIGS MADE FROM OTHER MATERIALS

Reasons why a person would want to create wig using a material other than hair

Different types of bases/foundations that can be used for non-hair wigs

Demonstrate how to steam and stretch a felt hood into a cap

Demonstrate how to make a buckram cap

Tips and techniques for non-hair wigs

Gallery of non-hair wigs

CHAPTER 13-HOW TO GET A SHOW INTO PRODUCTION

How to analyze a script

How to organize a show notebook

How to design a specific character

How to design an overall look for a show

How to budget for a show

Different jobs in the wig field and how to get them

How to charge appropriately for your work

CHAPTER 14-CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF WIGS

Methods of touching up a wig during a run

How to clean lace wigs and facial hairpieces

The proper way to wash a wig and how often it needs to be done

Proper storage and inventory of wigs